Hitches

Klemheist Knot

Machard knot
DIFFICULTY ●●●○○

A friction hitch made by spiraling a cord loop up the rope and threading the tail through the top bight. A close cousin of the prusik that's faster to tie and release.

climbingfrictionwebbing
See it tied step-by-step ↗

Why it earns its place

Grips well in one direction, ties quickly with cold hands, and — unlike the prusik — also works reasonably with flat webbing when cord isn't available.

Where it fails

One-directional by design: load it the wrong way and it slides. Orient the wraps deliberately and test the grip before trusting it.

Quick facts

TypeOne-way friction hitch
Under loadLocks one direction
UntyingQuick release
Best forFast friction backup

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