Loops

Yosemite Bowline

Bowline with Yosemite finish
DIFFICULTY ●●●●

A bowline with an extra tuck: the tail wraps around the loop leg and follows the standing line back through the top of the knot, locking the tail in place.

climbingadvanced
See it tied step-by-step ↗

Why it earns its place

Fixes the standard bowline's tendency to shake loose, and unties after loading far more easily than a figure eight — which is why some experienced climbers prefer it as a tie-in.

Where it fails

Unforgiving of mistakes. Tightened in the wrong order it quietly turns into a different, insecure knot that still looks plausible. If you can't inspect it confidently, don't trust it.

Quick facts

TypeLocked end loop
Under loadVery secure (if correct)
UntyingEasy after load
Best forExperienced climbers, haul bags

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